Interview with a Lotus Silk Weaving House in Inle, Myanmar
Aung Sakkyar Lotus Robe Production Co Ltd shares the weaving processes and this is translated by Khin Lin Naing (Pochi) with minor edits by Dr Britta Boyer. Photos courtesy of Aung Sakkyar Lotus Robe Production Co Ltd and Khin Lin Naing (Pochi). Artist sketches by Angela Huang.
The lotus with a long stem is the best plant for lotus weaving. Nelumbo nucifera is also known as the Sacred Lotus, Chinese water lily and Indian lotus; it is the main type of lotus used for weaving in Myanmar. The pink padonmakya is the best flower to produce thread for weaving.
Steps of lotus silk extraction
Gather lotus plants (stem) grown in the lake at the early morning from June to November
Clean the waste from the stem by washing with water and then take the threads or strips out of the stems of lotus plants
It is possible to strengthen the threads or strips through various phases such as
(a) twisting the threads to get a good strength (b) mixing with the soft rice to get a good resistance while weaving (this step is for the base warp thread) and (c) reeling the threads to transfer skein type into bobbin so that it is easier and clearer to use for the later process.
Some are for the base warp (set up) and others are transferred on the spool that is put inside the shuttle for the weft.
To weave a lotus silk robe with natural lotus colour, the loom set-up is approximately 5 - 7 days depending on the production quantities
To dye the lotus silk fabric with natural dyes (a) removing the dirt from the threads by washing with soap powder (b) prepare the fabric by soaking 3 for 4 days in cool water to get a good colour in the dyeing process (c) dyeing with the natural or chemical dyestuff about 1 day
Dry in the shade
Regenerative design conversations
The following questions arose during the weekly conversations with (UAL) MA Regenerative Design students as we started to receive photos from Lake Inle during the first weeks of the collaboration and had questions on the process of lotus thread extraction.
Translated by Khin Lin Naing (Pochi) with minor edits by Dr Britta Boyer
Q1. Does the lotus thread come to them like this and then they wash in the rice, or do they participate in the extraction process? Can they show us how it arrives to them?
They do not participate in the extraction process, they buy them at market price and carry the lotus threads by boat [ Message from Lin - Pochi studio - "it was not possible to get photos as lotus season is from June to November"].
Q2. Can they apply colour to the thread? How – plants?
They produce some robes with natural lotus colours and some with chemical dye [direct dye from India], for example, a lotus blanket with natural lotus colours and lotus shawls [see photo] with many natural dyes:
Sappan Wood
Waterlily Leaf
Cutch
Myrobalanseed
Lotus Leaf
Photo courtesy of Aung Sakkar
Q3. Is there any concern about running out of lotus?
They collect the lotus threads in advance during the lotus season (June to November) depending on their production quantity. Between seasons, customers may order but they cannot get high quantities in a short time.
All processes are handmade; to weave 1 meter (about 40 inches width) of lotus fabric, it needs over 10,000 lotus plants.
The distinct features of the lotus fabric [or products made from the lotus] are that the wearer feels warm when worn in winter, and cold when worn in summer; the cloth has the same fragrance as the lotus flowers,
Q4. Who do they sell the product to – is there a local market or do they export?
Both local and export to China and Japan.
Q5. Do they eat lunch like this together all the time? [see photovoice pictures]
They eat lunch like this together at least one time per month; the food is offered by the owner of the weaving house. The owner also offers seasonal food & snacks for them 4 times per week.
Aung Sakkyar Lotus Robe Production Co Ltd
Q5. Is the boat commute at the same schedule every day? How far is the loom from home?
Yes, it is daily activity about 4 pm; some are 10/15/20 minutes from home.